Off Topic Tips for making a leotard?

[COz]

So, I've bought a Jalie pattern, read a bunch of threads, learnt that there is a crotch panel in the biketard here and located my overlocker (what we Aussies call a serger).
Then I have a bit of a panic about needles and thread... hopefully the good people of ChalkBucket can come to the rescue.

Do I need to use ballpoint needles on the overlocker?
Is it possible to use ordinary thread for the overlocking (rather than wooly nylon) or is it too scratchy or likely to break?
3 or 4 thread overlocking on the seams?
Do you topstitch the bindings as described in the pattern or has anyone used a flatlock (overlocker) stitch?
With applique patterns do you just zig-zag over the edges or do you do something else?
When piecing together different colours, do you join with seams or overlay and topstitch or ....?

Any other tips or things to watch out for?

Thanks in advance

 

[Iwannabemargo]

So, I've bought a Jalie pattern, read a bunch of threads, learnt that there is a crotch panel in the biketard here and located my overlocker (what we Aussies call a serger).
Then I have a bit of a panic about needles and thread... hopefully the good people of ChalkBucket can come to the rescue.

Do I need to use ballpoint needles on the overlocker? I do - You can get stretch needles on fleebay
Is it possible to use ordinary thread for the overlocking (rather than wooly nylon) or is it too scratchy or likely to break? I use moon thread, don't know if you can get it over there
3 or 4 thread overlocking on the seams? I use 4 thread
Do you topstitch the bindings as described in the pattern or has anyone used a flatlock (overlocker) stitch? Yes I topstitched using zigzag as I dont have a flatlock (sigh)
With applique patterns do you just zig-zag over the edges or do you do something else? I stick them down with spray glue first and then zig zag, but beware it does gunk up the needle
When piecing together different colours, do you join with seams or overlay and topstitch or ....? Having looked at dd's existing ones I seam, if you can flatlock that might be better.

Any other tips or things to watch out for?

Thanks in advance

Remember to use differential feed if you have it and use stretch needles in your sewing machine as well, and check the elastic guide on the pattern before sewing with the childs leg, Little lad is chunky on the thigh and I had to unpick the leg elastic and re-sew.

Good luck and let us know what they look like.

 

[SurpriseGymMom]

So, I've bought a Jalie pattern, read a bunch of threads, learnt that there is a crotch panel in the biketard here and located my overlocker (what we Aussies call a serger).
Then I have a bit of a panic about needles and thread... hopefully the good people of ChalkBucket can come to the rescue.

Do I need to use ballpoint needles on the overlocker? No. You can, but it's not necessary. I do most of the time but honestly it doesn't make that big of a difference except in very few cases (I have had a couple of fabrics that disintegrated at the seams but they would have likely done that regardless of what needle was used)
Is it possible to use ordinary thread for the overlocking (rather than wooly nylon) or is it too scratchy or likely to break? Yes, I use regular serger thread all the time, I very seldom use wooly nylon. Do use serger thread (on the big cones) though, not sewing machine thread as that is thicker.
3 or 4 thread overlocking on the seams? I always use 4-thread
Do you topstitch the bindings as described in the pattern or has anyone used a flatlock (overlocker) stitch? I always cover stitch my bindings. If I didn't own the cover stitch machine, I would use a twin needle or a 3-step zigzag on the sewing machine to secure the binding.
With applique patterns do you just zig-zag over the edges or do you do something else? I use wash away stabilizer and zigzag.
When piecing together different colours, do you join with seams or overlay and topstitch or ....? Depends on how intricate the color blocking is. If it's a fairly simple line or curve, I join with seams and then cover stitch the seams flat. If it's a more swirly design I overlay and secure with zigzag much like an appliqué.

Any other tips or things to watch out for? Use your own elastic measurement. use lining on some fabrics as they can be revealing even if they aren't see through...
Have fun with it and go for it!!!

Thanks in advance

Let me see if I can upload a couple of pictures to show the different methods, I'm not sure what I have on the iPad...
Never mind, apparently the files are too big.
Good luck!!!

 

[COz]

Thanks Iwannabemargo, I'd decreased the thigh width along with the hips, that wouldn't have gone down well. Actually, maybe I should make it all a touch bigger rather than a perfect fit right now.

Did you both use wooly nylon or just ordinary thread?

 

[Iwannabemargo]

I use this thread

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/2212...ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=95&ff19=0

It was recommended by my overlocker retailer, I now use it for everything

 

[COz]

Thank you! So I guess the answer is that it's not too scratchy! I wasn't looking forward to mucking about with the wooly stuff.

 

[COz]

So who makes their leotards the 'right' size according to the pattern or do you allow some growing room?
I just made up a paper copy of the size I was planning to make and was a bit shocked at how much smaller it was than her current leotard.

 

[hawaii_gymnast]

I found that the Jalie pattern ran small, it was not my favourite pattern as it was harder to make and not as comfortable to wear.
I always use a Kwik-Sew pattern, I find it easier to work with and a lot faster and more comfy. I do make adjustments though by using fabric trim, not self trim and my cutting the pattern to make an open back in the suit for a better fit.
This is the patter I use, it also come in a 4-7 size.
http://www.sewthankful.com/kwiksew2725.html
I prefer wooly nylon thread as it makes for a nicer stretch, but regular thread feels fine.

 

[Iwannabemargo]

P&F is just 10 but wears a 32 leo as she is long in the body. I have been making a size 11 for her and it fits lovely, but for little lad I had to go up 2 sizes

 

[SurpriseGymMom]

I have used a lot of Jalie patterns and have found them to run *slightly* large but useable if you go by exact measurements (except one ballet Leo pattern that runs positively huge...). I tend to go down one size from what the measurements suggest and that works great for me since the sizes aren't that far apart in Jalie. Just remember to use only 1/4" seam allowance!
KwikSew patterns run huge, both for kids and grownup sizes. I always have to go down at least one size to come even close to a decent fit (I wear a normal medium or large and if I make anything larger than a small in KwikSew, it's huge on me.... My 12 yo, although petite, still wears a size 7 in KwikSew...)

You're doing great by comparing the pattern to a finished Leo. What pattern are you using?
Also, the stretch of the fabric makes a really big difference. Not all Leo fabrics are created equal... If your fabric is slightly less stretchy than recommended, then of course the sizing will be off.

As far as what I prefer to make dd.... Right now I'm making leos with just a hair of growing room. I put a lot of effort into most of them and I want her to be able to wear them for a while. They're not huge or baggy by any means, but they're going to work for the season for sure.

 

[SurpriseGymMom]

Oh, I re-read.... You're using the biketardJalie pattern? I have made the regular Leo in that pattern many times, dd wants nothing to do with the biketard though so I can't comment on the exact fit of that one. The regular Leo ran true to size. It's not my favorite Leo pattern, I use a different one (2762, I think) that I have altered to make a master pattern to fit my kid better but it's a good start.
Good luck!

 

[hawaii_gymnast]

KwikSew patterns run huge, both for kids and grownup sizes. I always have to go down at least one size to come even close to a decent fit (I wear a normal medium or large and if I make anything larger than a small in KwikSew, it's huge on me.... My 12 yo, although petite, still wears a size 7 in KwikSew...)

Yes the Kwik Sew pattern does run really big, I wore a size 12 at 17 years old, and I could still wear a 10 if I wanted it to be tight. But I found them to be more comfortable than Jalie.
It also depends on the fabric you use, the regular lycra is stretchier than the shiny stuff (which I cannot remember the name of right now)

 

[COz]

@SurpriseGymMom do you mean true to size as in if she's currently wearing a size 6 then make a size 6 or do you mean by the measurements?

The biketard is useful for when they are little and keep readjusting the bottoms of their leotards unless they are wearing shorts on top (our gym is very casual about training gear), and it's one less layer for the little ones to pull up after a toilet break
I'm not going to attempt a long sleeve one until winter, it's hot here!

 

[Iwannabemargo]

I would just add that my little one found the sleeves on the long sleeved leo a bit tight so I cut generously and sewed them looser. She has got quiet muscular arms though.

 

[Faith]

I find the Jalie leo's run true to size for *normal* kids, who are maybe in rec gymnastics. FOr gymnasts though, I find they are large in the width (or short on the body, whichever!). I've only ever bought second hand branded leo's though, so I don't know whether they're comparable or they've stretched to make them seem longer in the body- the size charts are exactly the same so the Jalie should run true.

DD- age 9, fits age 5 if I add a couple of cm in the length. I tend to measure, then make up to the measurements. That is a nice fit, but allows quite a lot of growing room as the lycra stretches. Our gym is quite strict- they don't allow any baggy leo's.

 

[SurpriseGymMom]

I mean true to size as in doing her measurements and choosing size based on that. My kids have very few RTW clothes, I make them basically everything.
My gymmie is a little more voluptuous than some, she's not heavy by any means but she's more powerfully built than lots of little gymnasts I see. She's 9 1/2 and wears a normal sz 7/8 in the few store bought clothes she owns... I think her comp Leo is a CL and I believe I usually make her size L or perhaps M in Jalie (not large or medium, the letter sizes specific to Jalie).
Our gym does not allow shorts or biketards once they are on team but dd doesn't like them anyways as she feels they ride up.

 

[eryes]

I always thought the Jalie pattern ran pretty true to street-bathing suit sizing. I'd purchase my kid a size 7 bathing suit (tiny 9yr old) and that's the size leo I make her. I've tried making her an 8...but it looks too big/baggy.

But for some of those tall, thin girls I'll make a slimmer version...or the muscular, longer torso girls a bit more of a square shaped version.

 

[COz]

Heehee. I haven't managed to make it yet, but the pattern has already been altered to remove any indication of a waist!

 

[gymmee mumme]

So, I've bought a Jalie pattern, read a bunch of threads, learnt that there is a crotch panel in the biketard here and located my overlocker (what we Aussies call a serger).
Then I have a bit of a panic about needles and thread... hopefully the good people of ChalkBucket can come to the rescue.

Do I need to use ballpoint needles on the overlocker?
Is it possible to use ordinary thread for the overlocking (rather than wooly nylon) or is it too scratchy or likely to break?
3 or 4 thread overlocking on the seams?
Do you topstitch the bindings as described in the pattern or has anyone used a flatlock (overlocker) stitch?
With applique patterns do you just zig-zag over the edges or do you do something else?
When piecing together different colours, do you join with seams or overlay and topstitch or ....?

Any other tips or things to watch out for?

Thanks in advance

So, I've bought a Jalie pattern, read a bunch of threads, learnt that there is a crotch panel in the biketard here and located my overlocker (what we Aussies call a serger).
Then I have a bit of a panic about needles and thread... hopefully the good people of ChalkBucket can come to the rescue.

Do I need to use ballpoint needles on the overlocker?
Is it possible to use ordinary thread for the overlocking (rather than wooly nylon) or is it too scratchy or likely to break?
3 or 4 thread overlocking on the seams?
Do you topstitch the bindings as described in the pattern or has anyone used a flatlock (overlocker) stitch?
With applique patterns do you just zig-zag over the edges or do you do something else?
When piecing together different colours, do you join with seams or overlay and topstitch or ....?

Any other tips or things to watch out for?

Thanks in advance

 

[gymmee mumme]

for some reason my text went missing
Hi I make all our gym outfits from leggings to tops, shorts and leo's. All the patterns basically end up the same its just a decision of style in the end.
but to answer your questions:
I use ordinary thread with a high poly count I tried woolly thread and it didnt go well.
If your using a three thread you will need to add an extra line of stitching with an ordinary machine on the stretch. I have found now that I just set the overlocker or serger on rolled hem and stitch whilst stretched for neater seams and edges.

I have tried every possible way to add bindings but have found the flattest and neatest look, so far is to make a strip of binding using clear elastic using a twin needle on an ordinary machine. This is basically wrapping a piece of lycra around a length of elastic and sewing it whilst stretched. then sew this around the neck and arms. (photo below of finished leo)

When appliqué (ing) I use basting spray on the piece I want to sew down then I dont need to pin because the pins pull it out of shape. and use a three stitch zig zag, teflon foot or walking foot so it doesnt drag, you still need to lift the foot to reduce drag on foil fabrics or slightly sticky feeling ones.

Piecing together different fabrics is a choice to join or appliqué. I join big pieces and appliqué small ones but be warned appliqué reduces stretch.

Other tips:
Just cut new patterns of your bought ones using that plasticy meshy kind of tissue paper florists use to wrap flowers. It dosent tear and you can write on it and see through to the original pattern and then your original stays pristine and whole.

Don't sew in the same order on the jalie patterns, I do one shoulder then neck whilst its folded out which is much easier then other shoulder then add sleeves without centre seam done then do the sleeve cuff then sew from the bottom of the sleeve up to the armpit and down the side in one seam. I then to the crotch and then legs.